to commonly asked questions.

Can you move a domain name to iCloud?

Can you help me move a domain that we use primarily for email from to icloud, we keep running into mailbox size issues.
Can you also help move the archived email currently on the server to iCloud so we can get access to it on iCloud?

It’s not possible to actually “move” a domain and email corresponding to that domain to iCloud. iCloud is not set up to handle domain email. It simply sends and receives email from “”. I think what you are referring to is to transfer your vanity domain from register over to a new service. There’s a lot to discuss when making this move. First, where to move it. The service I haver found to be far above the rest is GoDaddy. You will want the domain name, web hosting, and email hosting to all be under the same umbrella. While gmail does offer email hosting for vanity email I feel strongly that it’s always easier to have everything under one roof.

Here’s where it gets tricky. One hosting service almost NEVER wants to cooperate with a transfer. This requires changing a file called “mx records” so that all traffic gets pointed to the new direction. The new hosting service cannot do that so it’s up to either the user or the old service to make those changes. This is one of the primary reasons I recommend GoDaddy as they are very used to this behavior and can usually walk you through exactly what steps to take.

In terms of email name is one thing. Harvesting all the email from the old account before the old account is shut down is another. Your old email provider will not have a magic button that transfers the old email to your new service so it’s up to you to save everything. The simplest way this would be done would be to use a computer to pull down all the old email that’s relevant onto that computer locally. Set up the new email service then move the up to that services’ cloud. iCloud could be used in this case but you’d not be using a vanity email going forward.

So as you can see, there are many moving parts to this transition. Yes, I can assist. Warning: I’ve found this process to be slow and aggravating for the client. So if you have some patience and are not in too much of a hurry we can accomplish it. Please let me know your thoughts or what questions you may have.

Rapid charger for iphone?

Who makes the best “fast/rapid” charger cable/plug for Apple phones?

I've never felt good about recommending non-Apple chargers. Many third party chargers don't play by the same regulations in order to lower the cost. I've seen several faulty chargers spark or get overly hot so I tend to stick with trusted design. Yes, you are going to be paying more than you should but that's the ecosystem we live in unfortunately. All this being said, in order to fast charge you need an Apple USBC to Lightning cable. Beware other cables. Not all cables are created equally and some won't charge or transfer data in the same way. If you do decide to use a third party adapter along with the above mentioned cable, it would need support USB-PD.

Finally, the adapter would need to support 20w or higher in order for "fast charging" to be enabled. Anything above 25w is pointless as the cable will regulate fast charging to that limit. In other words a 65w charger will not be any faster than a 25w charger.

If you do decide to go the third party route, Belkin has a good history or reliability as they are willing to pay the "apple tax" so their products are approved by Apple. Anker is building a good reputation as well although I have no experience with them personally yet.

Anker Nano Charger, 20W PIQ 3.0 Durable Compact Fast Charger with 6ft USB-C to Lightning Cable, PowerPort III USB-C Charger for iPhone 12 / 12 Mini / 12 Pro / 12 Pro Max / iPad Pro and More

More info here:

Why is my iPad behaving like this?

Can you take over my iPad, and change this screen?


While yes, zoom can allow you to view another person's iOS device, it's not the most reliable feature. Regardless, you don't need me to resolve this issue. You've triggered "slide over". This is a common problem that people have fallen into. Apple has added several new features to the iPad with the ability to open multiple windows, sidebars, split screens etc… and people are accidentally triggering these features without understanding how to get back to a normal screen. So you're not alone here. At the top of the window on the right Side, you'll see a small handle. You can drag that window from the top down and it should disappear. For more info on new features of your iPad screen, take a second to look over the new multitasking windows here:

Switch an app window to a Slide Over window on iPad - Apple Support
Use multitasking on your iPad - Apple Support
Open two items in Split View on iPad - Apple Support

Orbi reset after power failure

After a power failure my Orbi router has appeared back as the default network name? How can I join it?

Sounds like somehow the Orbi reset if you are seeing the default network name in your list of available networks. If that is the case, you should be able to look on the bottom or back of either of the routers and it will list the network name AND password. Usually orbi default passwords are two words and a number like luckyorange24 or something similar.

Why am I still getting junk?

Still a good deal of junk seems to accumulate, but you think once I upgrade to the newer iOS system this will go away too?


Adjusting settings will not reduce the amount of junk you receive. It will just make sure it stays in the junk folder until the time you’ve set to delete it. Everyone gets tons of junk once their email address has been exposed. If the amount of junk you get concerns you, you can always set it to erase when quitting mail or once a day. Right now you have it set to one week I believe. Junk mail is harmless as long as it’s moving into the junk folder and out of the way. If it doesn’t get filtered and lands in the inbox, that’s when you have to use the junk button at the top your email application on the Mac to tell the computer, this is in fact junk and don’t let that sender land in my inbox again.

You can do this on your phone as well but takes a few extra steps. Swiping an email to the left should reveal the “more” then “move to junk” command. I find it easier to just use a computer.

Scammers are everywhere.

Scams are getting more and more elaborate. Every day it seems I'm being contacted by someone that has had their personal info compromised. These bad guys are getting very good at working around your security. The good news is that so far, two factor authentication seems to be holding them at bay. Two factor authentication requires that a code be sent to another registered device or email account that would be required to to authenticate yourself. The issue here becomes, if they have access to that email account already, you're behind the eight ball. Make absolutely sure you have two factor authentication turned on to prevent future invasions like this. Never join open wifi networks that do not require a password. If you have other accounts that contained the exact same password as your compromised password like ATT, Facebook, your power bill, Amazon, etc… change those immediately as well.

Stop using the same password for multiple accounts. Start thinking about your passwords being phrases instead of words. For example: don't use "Tarheels72". Do use: "Igraduatedfromuncin72withA+"

If they are able to get one of your accounts username and password combination, they will try that combination with multiple accounts. Eventually they'll get into one then change all your security questions and recovery email addresses which will then lock you out of your own accounts. Two factor authentication helps prevent this.

I recently worked with a company who uses standard emails like or and the bad guys were able to break into those. From there, they extracted their contact lists and began emailing all their clients saying they were due a refund. The link they provided went to a fake website designed to look like a login for Shopify. This particular bad guy was able to continue buying new domain names to direct traffic to in order to stay ahead of the other domain registrars that were shutting him/her down.

These fake emails are designed to sound serious in order to get your attention. For example:
"There was a problem processing your ATT payment."
"You overpaid on your last invoice and are due a credit"
"Thank you for your payment to Apple, click here for your free AirPods"

I see very intelligent clients panic, interact with these fishing schemes and then are lead farther down their confusing rabbit hole. They design their conversations with you to scare, intimidate, and confuse you. Do not call any numbers you are presented. If you are concerned with something, look the actual phone number of that particular company yourself. Or type in the website yourself. Don't trust the link to take you. Hint: If you hover a link, it will reveal the actual URL you're being directed to without clicking on it.

I realize I may sound like a broken record here. Just keep your guard up. Don't always trust what you read. Use complicated passwords. Do not join open wifi networks. If in doubt, feel free to forward any email to me or take a screenshot of whatever you may find suspicious.

The junk is killing me.

Are there better junk mail filters out there!? I’m deleting around 2,000 a day.

You shouldn't have to be tasked with deleting junk mail yourself. Let's look at how junk mail filtering works.

First, junk mail (spam) is filtered at a couple different levels. It's usually first filtered at the email provider level. Gmail will remove garbage email before it ever gets to you. That happens at their server first. The second layer of filtering happens on the Mac within Apple's mail program. Note that if your computer is closed or off, that level of junk mail filtering will not apply until it is awake again. This means that you may still see junk on your iPad or iPhone in the mean time. So it's a good idea to leave mail open on your computer while you are away.

Next, let's look at the options available in Apple's Mail app. There are three variations of junk filtering.
1. Mark it brown but leave it in the inbox.
2. Move it to the junk folder without asking.
3. Setting up custom rules.

Screen Shot 2021-11-12 at 6.04.16 AM

For 95% of us, the second option is really the best. Just move it automatically. Then you can set the junk folder to empty periodically automatically. To do this, you'll use the mailbox behaviors setting.

Screen Shot 2021-11-15 at 9.15.37 AM

This will give you a period of time to go through your junk mail folder to rescue any false positives before it is permanently deleted. Using this method, you are responsible for marking what email is junk or not junk. Use the junk button to determine the fate of future emails from the SAME sender. There's the catch. Junk mailers often use a different email address each time they send in order to circumvent junk mail filters. Example:

If you still feel there's too much getting through then you can use the third option of customizing junk filtering. Time to be careful however. These are very powerful tools that can end up going further than you'd like. First, you'll need to understand the "all" versus "any" command in the top left of the pic below. "All" means that every single rule you have added must be true at the same time in order for them to apply. This usually results in very few emails moved to junk. "Any" along with less rules is a better plan in my opinion.

By setting "any" then reducing the number of rules, you're more likely to catch exactly what you're after. This takes trial and error so you'll have to have patience to work out exactly what you're looking for. You can think of this window as an algebraic equation. If this, then that. If the following is true, then take the following action. It's best to stick with one action. That action is usually to simply move the message to the junk folder. That's the safest bet.

Next, subscribing and unsubscribing. By law, all bulk email from American companies must provide an unsubscribe option. However, the loophole that exists in that law is that while you can choose to unsubscribe from the monthly newsletter lets say, you may inadvertently be signing up for the weekly newsletter. Another note to keep in mind is that just because there's an unsubscribe option, the company may not be within the US and just be looking to gather more info. The amount of data companies can collect in today's internet is extraordinary. They can tell how long you looked at an email, whether you clicked on the link, hovered over the link, how long you hovered over a particular link, what site you were on before you visited theirs, where you went next after visiting their site, etc….Unsubbing is still a good option if you feel like the company is legitimate. However, keep in mind political email works very differently. Once a person signs up or interacts with a political organization, they will generally start getting a million more emails from various political organizations of the same beliefs. They work together to maximize donations etc…so those are usually harder to disassociate oneself from.

If Apple's built in junk filtering doesn't seem to do what you want, there are still other options. Spam Sieve is a popular third party filtering system you may find luck with. Around $30, it runs locally on your computer which means you'll need to keep your email client open in order for its effects to push over to iOS devices.

Hope this helps.

Why aren't my pictures on my computer?

Do you know why my pictures on my phone camera would not be on my computer?

Photos syncing between your phone and computer are a result of iCloud syncing services. Things to consider:

Are you logged into the same AppleID on both devices?
Is iCloud photos turned on in settings on the phone under iCloud?
Is iCloud photos turned on in system preferences on the computer under iCloud?
When the phone battery drops below 50% photo syncing will pause temporarily to preserve life.
The phone on wifi vs. LTE will usually result in faster syncing of photos as well.

What is this about?

Why am I getting this?


This is fake. It’s defined to try to get you to call that number so they can trick you into giving up your credit card or bank info. Just delete this.

Email immeadiately comes back after it's deleted.

Beginning today, when I delete multiple messages ( for example, Saks Fifth Ave) I deleted them and then they all return and need to be deleted again. Is there a simple fix? Thanks!

That’s a sign that the email account is not syncing quickly enough. You delete, and before it has a chance to send the message up to the server that you’ve deleted them, the server sends the message down saying “oh, looks like you’re missing these.” Then puts them right back. This is probably due to a lag in your upload speed of your ISP. There’s not really much you can do about it. Hopefully it will go away on its own. Calendar will sometimes exhibit similar behavior. You create an event, name it and within seconds the name goes back to “untitled”. This is the same thing happening. Download is faster than upload.

What kind of memory stick is this?

Do you know what style of card reader I would need to transfer this to my mac. We visited Kenya recently and these are the pictures from our ballon ride. I thought I could transfer them to my mac via a zip drive; but it is not compatible. Hoping you would know what type of reader I need to move the photos.



I’m pretty sure that’s just a USB stick without the outer protection layer. You should be able to put it in any standard USB slot on the back of your iMac or side of your laptop and it should mount.

How to reindex the drive to improve search results in Spotlight

Good morning Scotty. Silly question… on my desktop- I searched saved documents by clicking on magnifying glass and typing in the name I had saved documents under. Now when I search - it gives me definitions, Siri knowledge and websites.

Has something changed?
How do I retrieve documents that I have saved?

If the document is on the computer and the drive has been indexed then it will appear in the spotlight search results however it may be lower than you're looking. Spotlight can include a bunch of silly search results nobody actually cares about. To turn those off, go to system preferences/spotlight then uncheck any of the search items you'd like to exclude. If that doesn't help bring the more accurate results to the top then the drive may not be fully indexed. To re index the drive, go back to system preferences/spotlight and select "privacy" at the top. Add the entire hard drive to the privacy list. Restart your computer, then remove it from that list. It will force a re indexing of the entire drive. Usually takes about an hour but your search results will improve.

Why all the terms of service?

We just wanted to know what is Apple asking us to sign with the new iCloud terms and conditions?

Happy to correspond and answer as best I can any time. Whenever Apple’s lawyers change something in the terms of service, like privacy policy, liability of software updates, monetary change to subscription services, etc… they force us to agree to the terms of service once again. It’s their way of covering themselves against those out there that find reason to sue or join in on class action law suits.

A simple example might be that Apple may change the description of their battery performance on the iPhone 10 from 12.7 hours to 12.5 hours. They then push the terms of service out again for us to agree to, then when your battery doesn’t perform the way you first thought it would, the newer terms of service would have lowered that expectation that you agreed to (without reading) and therefore can’t bring litigation onto them.

That’s really what it’s all about in my opinion.

Desktop items greyed out part 2.

I know this should be obvious to me There are three videos on my desktop I’d like upload to Vimeo. They are “greyed out” when I try to designate the file in the app. See T. Laird on desktop and screenshot from Vimeo.


Image 10-6-21 at 7.24 PM

Based on the screenshot you sent, it looks like you may be in a different application than just using the finder. Based on the fact that the activate button says “Open”. Some applications can’t open some files. For instances, you can’t use iTunes to open a word document so if you chose Open in iTunes, all non qualifying files would be greyed out. So the next question is, what application are you in when you are attempting to select the movie files that live on the desktop?

Items on my desktop are greyed out.

I know this should be obvious to me There are three videos on my desktop I’d like upload to Vimeo. They are “greyed out” when I try to designate the file in the app. See T. Laird on desktop and screenshot from Vimeo.

This is likely being caused by the fact that you may have desktop syncing turned on via iCloud. Check here:

Then check here to see if desktop and documents syncing is turned on:

If it is checked then you could either try turning off iCloud Drive desktop/documents syncing then upload your resource or you could also try moving the item to a non syncing folder like the movies folder in your user folder. Those would then be force to download in their entirety and you should be able to upload them to Vimeo from there.

Why aren't my desktop and documents folders syncing across my computers?

Lately, I’ve noticed that nothing is synching between the two computers. If I file something in my Documents on the desktop, it doesn’t appear in the files on the laptop. Is there a quick fix to this?

Sounds like iCloud Drive's desktop/Documents folder syncing is not active on one or more of your devices. To check that this feature is turned on go to System preferences/AppleID/iCloud on each of the machines. Here's a brief overview:

If the option below is not checked for you, check it. However, there are consequences. Your Desktop and Documents folder will move from their traditional location inside the user's folder to the iCloud Drive folder.

You can now find your Desktop and Documents folder in the iCloud Drive area in the finder window on the left column as seen below.

This will merge the contents of both computers. You may see your desktop items disappear temporarily. This frightens people but nothing is actually gone. Just moved to a new folder dedicated to syncing to the cloud.

Note: You can also see the contents of these folders via your phone or iPad using the app called "Files". It's already on your devices. Apple devices ship with it pre-installed.

If you have any questions or run into issues, I'm happy to assist. As you can see above, I don't personally use iCloud Drive syncing as it turns the desktop folder into a cloud based location which means everything you place there syncs. While this is great for most people, I use the desktop area as a heavy workspace and can't afford the performance loss that syncing causes. In other words, editing a video, audio file, or similar that lives on an iCloud desktop is slower compared to a non syncing folder.

Moving an old iTunes library from a time machine drivwe

I'm bringing my old iTunes music into my new computer from an old backup. What do I need to look out for?

As Apple has transitioned from using the word “iTunes” to instead using the obligatory term “Music” (way to go Apple) the folder names have changed slightly. Since you’ve not yet opened “Music” on your new Mac, just drags the old “iTunes” folder from your TM backup drive into the “Music” folder on your Mac and then open the new Music app. The application should find the old files and upgrade those files to the new music library format.

This will be the largest potential for problems from your data recovery. The music folder contains both music AND some important files that apple uses to build your playlists and other groupings. These .xml files and such need to be present and in the correct place in order for your old playlists to show up. If, for some reason, you open your Music application and see all your music but none of your playlists, you’ll need some assistance again. But hopefully those files are all in the correct place and everything should just work. If not, happy to assist. You know how to find me.

How big should my backup drive be?

How do I connect a time machine drive? What drive size do I need?

If you have not yet started a new time machine backup you’ll need a spare external hard drive equal to or greater than the size of your internal drive. You can temporarily get away with a smaller drive but eventually you’d grow out of that size drive as time machine wouldn’t be able to back up the entire drive if the internal drive contained more data than the external drive was able to hold. So best to do it right the first time. Buy a drive equal to or larger than the internal drive.

Secondly, if the computer doesn’t prompt you to start using the newly connected drive as a TM backup, just go into System Preferences, Time Machine and select the new drive. It may ask you if you’d like to replace an old one. Say yes and let it run. Leave it connected and time machine will periodically backup your internal computer’s hard drive.

Removing one of the two routers I'm using

I need to remove my time capsule from my existing network that also has another router behind it.

You should be able to just unplug the time capsule and the ethernet cables it was using and your computer will return to preferring the previous wifi network. If will automatically go back to using the 192.168.x.x wifi network rather than the ethernet 10.0..0.x network that the time capsule was distributing.

Safari functioning differently after update

When I click on Safari,top left begins with start page and bookmarks folder is listed below. This is different.Yes, we have time machine. Update was incremental. We have Catalina 10.15.7.All bookmarks work except financial ones. Can I call you or schedule a time to talk?

This may be better solved if I could see your screen. Happy to assist via zoom remotely if you’d like. You can schedule using the link below. Having a hard time visualizing your problem. You could also just send a screen shot of the issue by holding down command_shift+4 then dragging over the area you’d like me to see. That will drop a screenshot onto your desktop which you could then email to me to give me a better idea of what the problem is.
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