Answers...

to commonly asked questions.

Running out of application memory.

Why am I seeing this message on my computer?

Screen Shot 2022-05-10 at 7.31.09 PM
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That means the applications, which borrow ram as they run, are out of ram. Usually when a program quits, it hands its’ ram back over to the computer for a new program to use it. Sometimes that process gets hung up and a computer can think it’s out of ram aka: memory. Restarting should take care of it. If not, I would want to investigate further. I can resolve it if needed. Do a restart and let me know if you see that message again.

Do you like LastPass?
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Really the question is would I recommend a password management system? At the moment, my answer is no. Here's why.

1. It's yet another subscription.
2. It allows you to be lazy with a very important aspect of your life. It's sort of like paying someone to pay your bills for you. You'll never really have a clear picture as to what's really going on with your account.
3. You are potentially turning password creation over to an application that will indeed make very secure passwords for your accounts. However, you are always married to that application. It will need to live on every single device, and if you ever just need a password on the fly, even when you do find it via the app it may be so complicated that you'll lose your mind typing it in.

Alternative: I prefer using a 5 column spreadsheet that I can also password protect if I like. I want to make sure I share that password with a very close trusted loved one because I may forget it. I'm going to put in in a cloud location like Dropbox or iCloud Drive. I'm going to think of my passwords as phrases. Never a word in the dictionary followed by some numbers and a special character.

Bad passwords:

Tarheels1
Rolltide68
Monkey1949!

Good passwords:

Ilike20%cottagecheese
Mycoffeeis1000%hot.
greenbeanstasteterribleinOctober

In regard to the 5 columns I mentioned previously.

Example:


Column 1: Account. Duke Energy
Column 2: username scottysells
Column 3: password pumpkinsarebestwhen30%ripe
Column 4: notes account number is 34835929
Column 5: when last verified or changed June 20, 2019

Microsoft Office update alert

Hey this has been popping up on my computer.

66914609555__35B5B74F-A064-4425-97D0-50B9A5DE64A3

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That message you’re seeing is a legit message from Microsoft asking you to update Office. Hitting OK should trigger the update tool. After running the update, the message should go away. In some instances, I’ve seen the need for Office to be needed to be reinstalled. If the message persists, you can log in to office.com and download the office installer again. But hopefully just clicking OK and running the updater should take care of the problem.

Did I just expose my data?

Scotty - afternoon. I was expecting a package delivery today and was in a mtg and I opened a text with a link to an Arabic language site. Is there anything I need to do? I quickly shut off the phone and rebooted.

Thanks

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I think you’re most likely fine. Usually, just clicking the link will not cause you harm. It’s more about the NEXT steps you take like being tricked into entering personal information within that particular website. I suspect you’re ok.

I can't find my archived email. Where is it?
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1. You may not have “archiving” enabled.


Go to gmail.com first and login to that account on the web. Then go to settings. Under settings I believe it’s under forwarding and IMAP. You might find a checkbox to archive.

2. You could possibly have archive turned on but not showing in your IMAP settings.

Again, at gmail.com you can check which folders you’d like to show in your email client. For example, you can hide “important” or “sent” from being seen in your mail client.


Also not a bad idea that if you’re using Outlook, to set up your mail account in apple’s mail program also. No harm in having it in both. If the archive feature is turned on, it will list on the left side of that screen.


. Ok, so if you have archiving enabled on an email account it would appear on the left column as seen here:

Screen Shot 2022-02-08 at 7.10.34 AM

Notice that each email account has it’s own archive folder. In the example above, aol, iCloud, then my business account.
If you don’t see that and it’s a gmail account, go to settings and check this setting:

Screen Shot 2022-02-08 at 7.14.11 AM


You’ll need to make sure you are pointing archive mail to be stored in the archive mailbox. If “archive” is not a choice in that dropdown then we will have to head back to gmail.com to make some adjustments.

Enabling Javascript on Safari

I can’t get my Safari to work, I can’t seem to login into several websites, however I don’t have a issue on Google Chrome. Safari on one website also mentioned I needed javaScript…might the be the issue?
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First you'd want to force quit Safari to see if that solves the issue. The next thing to check is your Safari preferences under security. You can check the javascript option and try using Safari again.

I can’t get my Safari to work, I can’t seem to login into several websites, however I don’t have a issue on Google Chrome. Safari on one website also mentioned I needed javaScript…might the be the issue?
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How do I eject my time machine drive?

Scotty…..I have this box in upper corner of my deck top computer screen. ( Eject” Seagate Portable Drive” before disconnecting or turning off) Don’t I always keep the hard drive connected to my desk too? If I need to turn off my computer and then turn it back on for any reason, do I unplug the hard drive, then once computer is up and running again reconnect it? What happens of the electricity fails and the hard drive is connected…I would think it would be OK?

Also I am traveling/flying in a couple of days….do I need to keep the hard drive connected to the lap top at all times?
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You don't need to keep your time machine backup drive connected ALL the time. Really just at least every few days for it to have a chance to record all the things you've added to your computer within the last time.

The box in the upper corner of the screen is a message the computer is displaying that is basically saying the drive accidentally disconnected. It's no major issue. You really shouldn't even have to see that message.. The computer just prefers that you eject the drive properly. It's really no big deal if it doesn't.

The proper way to eject the drive is to either:

A: drag the hard drive icon (usually olive green) to the trash which becomes an eject icon as soon as you start dragging it or…
B: right click the external hard drive icon and choose eject.

There are other ways to eject but these are the easiest two methods.

No need to worry if the electricity goes out. The time machine software is very good and usually has no problem just picking right back up where it last left off with the backup.

How can I free up space on my iPad?

Remind me again how to free up storage space. We have done this before but I don’t have a clue. 1st generation Pro.
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You can go into Settings/General/iPad Storage.

Once there, you'll see a list of all the categories taking up space on your iPad.
Often it's Podcasts, Photos, Audiobooks, Messages, etc…

Depending on what you see there, the next steps vary. You can choose to only optimize your photos library if that's taking up space,

You can choose to remove movies you may have stored locally.

You could tell your iPad to only save the last 30 days of text messages if that's the issue.

So overall, there's no one button to just recover space. It all depends on what's taking up the space in the first place.

What ad blocker do you use?

I have a new iPad and watch.
Which ad blocker would you recommend . I have sooo many robo text messages and emails
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There are no ad blockers for phones, iPads, or watches. The best thing to do is put your number on the "do not call" registry. But once your number has been exposed, that doesn't solve it 100%. You'll still need to continue to block numbers constantly. The problem there is that the robot callers never use the same number twice so you're not doing much by blocking them.

Swapping out Time Machine drives

I just got an error message saying no backups for 10 days.  Stupidly didn't look to see if backup icon was on desktop.  Just unplugged drive then plugged it back up.  There are six (6) backup entries on the 14th but zero after that.  So I'm guessing I need a new external drive?  Do we need you to do anything or do I just buy one and plug it in?  Happy to schedule wit you but didn't want to clog up your calendar if not needed.
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I wouldn’t necessarily think you need a new drive although at around $60 it’s never a bad idea to replace them periodically. Reconnecting the drive to your Mac should automatically innate the backup to pick back up where it left off. You can find the most recent backups in the backup.backupsdb folder.


If you do decide to buy a new one, then you’d want to sever the relationship You would go into Time Machine, remove the old disk from the list then add the new one. Not too hard.

Did I buy the right hard drive for backup?

I ordered the back up device you recommended — https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CRG94G3?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details. I Plugged it in today and here is the message I got. Did I order one that isn’t MAC compatible?



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That drive is totally fine. You don’t want to use the the software that came with it. You’ll want to go into System preferences then select “Time Machine”. Then choose backup disk. It will ask you if you’d like to reformat the drive (aka: erase) Yes, you will want to do that. Then the time machine software will be the backup method.

Most drives come with a crappy backup software just like this. Time machine is way better. Let me know if you have any issues. Happy to quickly assist if needed.

Time to replace the battery?

Hope you are well and were able to have some downtime over the holidays.
I have an early 2014 Macbook Air that is starting to give me some concern. Wanted your opinion about replacing. 8GB RAM / 500 GB SSD.
It has recently shut down unexpectedly. I believe this is only happening on battery power, but it may have occurred once while plugged in. The last time was this week. Definitely on battery power and was at ~20%. I was working and it died about 5 min later - battery fully dead. It has been operating normally since then, but I'm wondering if I have the early warnings of a system (or battery) about to reach the end of its life. 

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2014 Computer= 8 years of battery life. Every battery has a limited number of charge cycles. (How many times a computer's battery can be FULLY depleted and recharged.)
. Their number is around 1000 but I feel it to be much lower than that before the battery starts holding less and less charge. The sign of a failing battery is just as you described. One moment the battery will state it has 80% then a couple minutes later down to 3% then dead. That is very common behavior to a dying battery.

Apple states that they will replace your battery out of warranty for somewhere around $150 depending on the computer model but keep in mind, the battery you'd be getting has been sitting in their inventory for around 6 years at best. Third party batteries are not a safe alternative. I don't trust battery replacements outside Apple as this are often cheaper and possible fire hazards. I've seen several after market batteries go up in flames. So I don't recommend that either.

With all this considered, I would push toward replacing the machine in the near future. If you'd like to see the current cycle count as well as the condition of the battery go to "About this Mac' under the apple in the top left corner of the screen. Next, select "system report". On the left column you'll see "power". That will tell you the current condition and cycle count.




All this being said, we are talking about an 8 year old battery. Think of it like a car battery. An 8 year old car battery might start the car today but it's going to soon leave you stranded on the side of the road. Rechargeable batteries are just disposable parts.

More Battery info here:
Mac Repair - Official Apple Support


Reasons for bad wifi.

his is my computer - everyone around me is doing fine on internet (we have Wifi)
Is there something that I can do to try and speed mine up?



Image 1-6-22 at 9.43 AM
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Those numbers are pretty terrible. There can be many causes for that. The most common is a poor connection to the wifi router. If you have more than one router in your home/office, if the computer is not making the move from one to the other as you move through the location, that can result is numbers like this. There are ways to determine how strong the signal is in a specific location. Another reason can obviously be that the actual signal provided by the ISP is the problem. That can absolutely be the reason but usually the numbers wouldn’t be that low. It’s more likely that your connection to your router is the problem.

It’s also possible that your wifi card has become disconnected or has failed. These modules are very small and usually have a very small cable antenna attached via a snap mechanism. If the antenna has become separated that would cause the super low signal as well. That would require Apple to do the hardware require.

Mail search not working.

The search in my mail isn't working.
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I get asked about this quite often. The Mac's mail search does seem to break down quite often. It's tied to spotlight so if the spotlight index fails, then search overall across your computer will be ineffective. Let's look at a few things to try to kickstart your mail's search feature back to functional.

1. Rebuild your mailbox. To do so, in the Mail application, select the your inbox then under the word "Mailbox" in the menu bar, at the bottom choose "rebuild". That may fix the issue. However, keep in mind you won't see a progress indicator so you won't have any way of knowing when it's done rebuilding. I'd give it an hour or more then see if search has started working again. You'll need to run the rebuild for each inbox you have. In other words, if you have three accounts like gmail, aol, iCloud then select each and run each separately.

2. Rebuild the entire spotlight index. I've found this to be the most effective way to get mail's search back again. First, click on the spotlight icon in the menu bar and do a simple search for something you know is related to mail like someone's name you've recently corresponded with. You should get results ranging from web searches, documents on your computer and email. If you don't see any email results then that's a very good indicator this will do the trick. Here's how to rebuild the index.
A. The Easiest way to try first: Open system preferences and go to the Spotlight pane. Uncheck the Mail and messages checkbox, restart your computer, then go right back and recheck them again. Wait about an hour.



If that doesn't resolve Mail search then we use the Nuclear option.


B: The Nuclear Option: System preferences/Spotlight…now select Privacy. Drag your entire Hard Drive icon into the window therefore adding it to the Privacy list. Restart. Now return to the same area and remove it from the list by using the minus button at the bottom left. Wait an hour.



Your mail search should now work.

Still not working or would rather someone else do it, schedule a session. There are other things we can do but those require a bit more technical surgery.

University has control of my iPad and I want to sell it.


I recently purchased an 2019 iPad Air 3 from a buddy of mine that goes to Anderson University in SC. I bought the iPad because for the past year I have been wanting one to use for drawing and note taking (I’ve been doing doing illustrations physically in a sketch pad for about 2 years now), and his school had gifted each student an iPad and he never used it, so he was just going to sell it along with the Apple Pen they gave him with the iPad to me for a reduced price.

He had factory reset the iPad before I bought it from him, but upon starting it up, choosing my language, and connecting to our WiFi, a message popped up as the iPad was setting itself up that read something along the lines of “Account/Device Management by Anderson University. This device is managed by Anderson University. Please follow the steps to set up the iPad.” And then I clicked continue and it sent me to the window I attached in this email:



I texted my friend and told him about it, and he was confused because some of his friends had sold their iPads to people and hadn’t had too many problems from what he was aware. It wouldn’t let me set up the iPad without the device management, so he just gave me his school account’s username and password so I could continue the set-up process.

After I set up the iPad I checked the general settings and looked into the MDM (Mobile Device Management) that it referred to earlier. The management seems to give them a lot of control over my iPad. I looked under the “Rights” for it and it had everything from “Erase all data and settings” to “install and remove applications and data” listed. They have so much control that I can’t even remove it manually. I don’t want the iPad if it’s not mine and not free from their control.

My friend ended up sending an email to them with the device serial code and mode number attached, explaining to them that he had sold it to his friend and was wondering if they could remove the device from their systems. But seeing as the school is the one that gave him the iPad for free, I’m not sure IT will just let him take it off their management. Like… for all they know he could be lying to them in order to just have his iPad be fully accessible and separated from their control. And seeing as they paid for it I doubt they’ll like the idea of him selling it either.

So I returned it back to him last night and he gave me all my money back, except for the Apple Pen which I kept and he only charged me $50 for. I was just wondering, knowing you’re an expert with stuff like this, is there anything we can do on our end to get the MDM off of that iPad? I did some research online but couldn’t find much on how to totally remove it on my side. It seems like the device will be managed under them remotely no matter what since it’s in their registry and my friend Elijah isn’t plan on transferring or graduating from the college any time school. Do you think this the case, or is their something we can do to remove the MDM ourselves without even having to get their approval first?
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So sorry you’re dealing with this trouble. Short answer is: You have to go through the University in order to sever the relationship between the iPad and the account. There is software that, even when wiped, will still exist until the University (or business) removes it from their list. Each device has an internal number sort of like a serial number but less obvious that allows them to control all these devices remotely.


In the text you saw, it is totally possible to sever the relationship but they state that they only go through that process bi-annually. In other words, they’re not in a hurry to go the task of removing an iPad every time one of thousands of students ask them to. So they’re saying “we’ll get around to it but don’t hold your breath.”


Depending on how the remote management from the IT dept. at that university handled the install, it might be possible to go beyond a “erase all content and settings” and instead use what is called DFU mode or “restore mode”. This would require connecting your iPad to a computer using the Finder to erase and restore. However, as I said, depending on how they implemented this, there are versions of remote management software that will still exist even after doing the DFU restore.


I see this type of issue all the time. Say you give me your old phone as a gift. I wipe it and try to start using it for myself. Before I can start the setup, the phone will ask me for YOUR old AppleID password in order to complete the process. This is an anti theft measure that Apple has implemented to discourage people from stealing devices. And it works very very well. No one steals an second iPhone these days because they realize after the first one, there’s nothing they can do to work around that hidden feature.


Same situation here. Otherwise, just like you said, students would go rogue and just wipe their devices to get off the university grid so to speak.

Can you move a domain name to iCloud?

Can you help me move a domain that we use primarily for email from register.com/web.com to icloud, we keep running into mailbox size issues.
Can you also help move the archived email currently on the
register.com server to iCloud so we can get access to it on iCloud?
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It’s not possible to actually “move” a domain and email corresponding to that domain to iCloud. iCloud is not set up to handle domain email. It simply sends and receives email from “example@icloud.com”. I think what you are referring to is to transfer your vanity domain from register over to a new service. There’s a lot to discuss when making this move. First, where to move it. The service I haver found to be far above the rest is GoDaddy. You will want the domain name, web hosting, and email hosting to all be under the same umbrella. While gmail does offer email hosting for vanity email I feel strongly that it’s always easier to have everything under one roof.

Here’s where it gets tricky. One hosting service almost NEVER wants to cooperate with a transfer. This requires changing a file called “mx records” so that all traffic gets pointed to the new direction. The new hosting service cannot do that so it’s up to either the user or the old service to make those changes. This is one of the primary reasons I recommend GoDaddy as they are very used to this behavior and can usually walk you through exactly what steps to take.

In terms of email name is one thing. Harvesting all the email from the old account before the old account is shut down is another. Your old email provider will not have a magic button that transfers the old email to your new service so it’s up to you to save everything. The simplest way this would be done would be to use a computer to pull down all the old email that’s relevant onto that computer locally. Set up the new email service then move the up to that services’ cloud. iCloud could be used in this case but you’d not be using a vanity email going forward.

So as you can see, there are many moving parts to this transition. Yes, I can assist. Warning: I’ve found this process to be slow and aggravating for the client. So if you have some patience and are not in too much of a hurry we can accomplish it. Please let me know your thoughts or what questions you may have.

Rapid charger for iphone?

Who makes the best “fast/rapid” charger cable/plug for Apple phones?
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I've never felt good about recommending non-Apple chargers. Many third party chargers don't play by the same regulations in order to lower the cost. I've seen several faulty chargers spark or get overly hot so I tend to stick with trusted design. Yes, you are going to be paying more than you should but that's the ecosystem we live in unfortunately. All this being said, in order to fast charge you need an Apple USBC to Lightning cable. Beware other cables. Not all cables are created equally and some won't charge or transfer data in the same way. If you do decide to use a third party adapter along with the above mentioned cable, it would need support USB-PD.

Finally, the adapter would need to support 20w or higher in order for "fast charging" to be enabled. Anything above 25w is pointless as the cable will regulate fast charging to that limit. In other words a 65w charger will not be any faster than a 25w charger.

If you do decide to go the third party route, Belkin has a good history or reliability as they are willing to pay the "apple tax" so their products are approved by Apple. Anker is building a good reputation as well although I have no experience with them personally yet.

Anker Nano Charger, 20W PIQ 3.0 Durable Compact Fast Charger with 6ft USB-C to Lightning Cable, PowerPort III USB-C Charger for iPhone 12 / 12 Mini / 12 Pro / 12 Pro Max / iPad Pro and More

More info here:
https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT208137

Why is my iPad behaving like this?

Can you take over my iPad, and change this screen?
ipadodd

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While yes, zoom can allow you to view another person's iOS device, it's not the most reliable feature. Regardless, you don't need me to resolve this issue. You've triggered "slide over". This is a common problem that people have fallen into. Apple has added several new features to the iPad with the ability to open multiple windows, sidebars, split screens etc… and people are accidentally triggering these features without understanding how to get back to a normal screen. So you're not alone here. At the top of the window on the right Side, you'll see a small handle. You can drag that window from the top down and it should disappear. For more info on new features of your iPad screen, take a second to look over the new multitasking windows here:

Switch an app window to a Slide Over window on iPad - Apple Support
Use multitasking on your iPad - Apple Support
Open two items in Split View on iPad - Apple Support

Orbi reset after power failure

After a power failure my Orbi router has appeared back as the default network name? How can I join it?
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Sounds like somehow the Orbi reset if you are seeing the default network name in your list of available networks. If that is the case, you should be able to look on the bottom or back of either of the routers and it will list the network name AND password. Usually orbi default passwords are two words and a number like luckyorange24 or something similar.
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